Sandrina’s new taste in old space
Sandrina’s, a somewhat notorious after hours South City landmark on Arsenal just west of Schnucks, is now reopened under new ownership. After some restoration and renovation, the place has a great ’60s vibe to it. Mid-century light fixtures, bar stools and dining chairs have been refurbished and re-upholstered for a period look that is authentic and totally cool without being relentlessly “Rat Pack” overkill. Lacy yellow curtains frame windows fitted with pots of herbs, and tabletops are covered in photocopied old newsprint of yesteryear’s headlines under glass. It is indeed a comfortable and inviting space to dine.
As befits a legendary late night drinking establishment, a huge antique semi-oblong bar and back bar dominates the entrance.
Currently the bar is open until 1:30 a.m. and the kitchen is open until 1 a.m., but do not despair because a 3 o’clock liquor license should be in effect by the beginning of next month. Managing partner Trish Erwin has promised that the kitchen will remain open and will be serving food until 2:15 a.m. In a follow-up conversation, she expressed her hope that Sandrina’s will become a destination for restaurant industry people to congregate after work and get something to eat.
Happy Hour runs from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. making it more of a “Happy Day.” It includes some beer specials and well drinks. Between 4 and 7 p.m. bar food is discontinued.
The second floor, which can be rented for private functions, has another lounge, a pool table and a vintage juke box which plays 45s—11 plays for 75 cents. This area is also being used as a venue for live music.
The new owners are Trish, Danny and Sandy Erwin and Al Trice. Trish Erwin brings experience from the Delmar Lounge and Juniper Grill. Danny and Sandy Erwin are Trish’s parents and they watch the books. Al Trice keeps the equipment working.
The lunch menu is mostly sandwiches, and the dinner menu features mostly homestyle specials like fried chicken and meatloaf. Both are being expanded to include some pastas, several steaks and prime rib.
Interestingly enough, it was the appetizers that really impressed me. The appetizer menu is really more like a tapas menu with several intriguing choices. I enjoyed a well executed ceviche, presented in a martini glass surrounded by flour tortilla crisps dusted with chili and cinnamon. The only problem I had with this dish was that the waiter told me it was made with crab and shrimp. Actually it was made with a combination of shrimp, salmon and tilapia, not a major problem considering the excellent flavor.
Blackened carpaccio was also excellent—the blackening process adding a delicate smoky dimension. However, it was missing the charred tomato that was supposed to accompany it and in its place was an herb spread. Erwin later explained to me “we simply ran out of the tomato and threw together something else”.
Beets showed up twice, first as an appetizer with fennel, goat’s cheese and toasted almonds (which I really enjoyed) and also chilled in a salad. Shredded duck over almond potato cakes sounded wonderful, but were unavailable due to being sold out.
Brunch is served on Sunday, but the regular menu is also available. Eggs benedict, biscuits and gravy are two choices, but I had eggs Sandrina, two crab cakes topped with poached eggs and hollandaise. Sadly the dish was over salted, but the crab was a superior product and the eggs were perfectly poached leaving me optimistic that the next time I order this dish, it will be excellent.
Crème brulee and chocolate quenelles (quenelles is a word play on traditional French fish dumpling) are the dessert offerings. The quenelles were presented in the traditional oval shape, but molded out of chocolate filling instead of fish and covered with chocolate ganache – really tasty and creative.
Erwin again explained to me that she had some “issues” in the kitchen and had made some recent personnel changes, but that Jahsen Thomas was now firmly in place as the Chef and was already solving some of the problems. He brings experience from Arthur Clay and Balaban’s.
Despite a couple of missteps (typical for all new places), I highly recommend Sandrina’s. I really think you’ll enjoy the experience.
You can e-mail Mickey Kitterman at mickeykitterman@yahoo.com.
